Right on the edge of Piccadilly Circus, Hawksmoor Air Street is certainly one of the steak chain's busiest central sites, and the grand regency architecture of Regent Street really matches Hawksmoor's sultry wood and leather steakhouse chic. Like many Hawksmoor sites, you feel whisked away from the hum drum of the outside world as soon as you step through the enormous doors - at Air Street, a grand spiral staircase lifts you away from street level, and into an enormous bar and dining room that seems to stretch for miles.

As ever at Hawksmoor, you feel in good hands as soon as you're inside. The bar area is cosy and makes a great spot for a pre-dinner cocktail, with the menu delivering some more fantastic house mixes. Our pick was a lychee martini, chilled to a refreshing -12 degrees. The dining room is a sea of emerald leather banquettes and smart wooden herringbone floors.

There are plenty of excellent options on the menu at Hawksmoor these days, but inevitably, the eyes flutter towards that blackboard, where the real prizes live. Ours was a majestic chateaubriand, cooked to absolute medium-rare perfection, and flanked by side orders of mac and cheese, creamed spinach and beef dripping fries; Hawksmoor has really nailed the perfect crispy French fry, making this a worthy contender to the famous triple-cooked chip.

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